I never thought I would end up on a search for the best of the best empanadas during my time in Chile considering I was never a big fan of them when I left Los Angeles.
However, I hypothesize that I am in love with the fresh "ostiones" (scallops) and "jaiva" (crab) here in Chile and when you wrap them with a crunchy flaky fried exterior, you get an ever so tasty empanada!
Please note that the following places have been suggestions from locals, Lonely Planet tour book, or from me checking out a new place. I have found that empanadas are not always consistently good at the same place especially when it comes to seafood empanadas. Perhaps it depends on who makes the empanada or if they have enough ingredients that day.
Que Rico! (The Best)
Emeterio II (Downtown Renaca across the beach)- I've been here twice and it seems to be the best value yet even though the 2nd time was not as good as the first time. The empanadas are stuffed with more of what you order instead of the usual cheese stuffing. Plus, some of them have additional seasonings which make the empanadas more flavorful. My favorites have been the machas, ostiones, jaiva, and I tasted the non-seafood empanadas with vegetables and meats which were equally good. Note this is is not a restaurant but just a food stand with chairs on the sidewalk for you to sit.
I have heard that the Emeterio in Con Con is equally delicious and perhaps slightly cheaper!
Entremasas (In LP book, 5 Norte 377 Vina Del Mar)- I liked the ricotta with camarones as well as the dessert empanada containing manjar and nueces. My friends liked theirs too. Medium sized at around $1200 CLP each which was a little pricier than most empanandas. I think there is another Entremasas several blocks from this one, but not sure if it is the same. You can order baked empanadas.
Empanadas Las Tablas (Calle Ecuador near the bridge, Vina Del Mar)- Highly recommended by many of my friends, both baked empanadas, "espanola" and "griega" were deliciously filled with chorizo, olives, cabre cheese, basil, etc. No seafood empanadas here.
La Pica La Flora (Downtown Maitencillo, 1.5 hours north of Vina Del Mar)- I liked the jaiva as well as the ostion empanadas. Well priced. I ate outside in their outdoor garden patio. This place also has cabins, hostels?, and a swimming pool adjacent to it.
Dorisman (Guanacero, which is a small coastal fishing town south of Coquimbo)- Empanada Surtida which had a mix of seafood inside of it. It was delicious at $1200CLP. There are also tons of other food stalls where we ate that sell delicious ceviche and pil pil.
Cafe Dane's (Puerto Varas)- The baked empanadas especially the "pino" tasted like beef pot pie!
Que Fome! (Bleh!)
Emeterio (Valparaiso)- Although it appears to be the fancier sister restaurant to Emeterio II, the empanada served here is not as good and is more expensive.
Masa Rica (322 6 Norte, Vina Del Mar)- A friend highly suggested this place as she frequented it often. The empanadas were smaller, but definitely stuffed with lots of cheese and some seasoning. Super SALTY. I tried both the Macha (recommended) and Ostion Queso empanadas which sadly had only 2 pieces of shell fish in each empanada. Perhaps if I came back on another day, I would get more shellfish.
El Refugio (A block away from "La Pica de Martin" in Renaca)- This restaurant which was recommended by the owner of the popular seafood restaurant,"La Pica de Martin", served mediocre seafood empanadas.
Las Deliciosas (Visited by Anthony Bourdain, Downtown Con Con)- My seafood empanada had very little filling inside though the flaky exterior was delicious. Perhaps the other dishes here are better even though the empanadas were well known here in the past. This restaurant is one of many seafood restaurants on the same street across from the beach. If you want to go horseback riding on the beach, this is the place. It's less than $6 for half hour. But watch out for the horse dung if you plan on walking on the beach!
Mono Express (Suggested by my micro driver, Downtown Con Con)- Ordered seafood empanada which had a pasty texture. Did not enjoy it. There is a Mono Restaurant down the street with lots more people. Perhaps that was where my micro driver wanted me to go to?
El Chejo (Suggested by LP book, Quemchi, Chiloe)- This place was HIGHLY recommended by LP book and they have a book signed by hundreds of foreigners who have visited the place and loved their seafood. However, the seafood was mediocre and somewhat pricey for what we ordered. The seafood empanada was a bit tasteless. One of the worst I've had.
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